Italian-Style Turkey that Is Juicier and Tastier

 This clever dish transforms turkey breast into porchetta. This Parmesan, prosciutto, garlic, and herb-stuffed alternative to the traditional Thanksgiving bird is rolled, and roasted until the skin turns golden brown and crackles.

IT WAS NOVEMBER of the pandemic's first year. The lockdowns were still in place, and the initial shock of it all had given way to monotony. Thanksgiving was approaching, but that year the meal would only be shared by my husband David, myself, and a neighbor. This would not be our customary holiday, which always entails pulling out the dining room table's leaves and searching the basement for extra wine glasses and silverware.

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That year, David set up our garage such that it served as a cozy but socially segregated café for three. Regarding the food, I've never been a fan of conventional roast turkey because let's face it, it tends to be bland and dry, and because there will only be three of us, even the tiniest turkey won't suffice. I needed a replacement that was both useful and cheery enough to add some much-needed brightness. Fortunately, both of my Portland, Oregon restaurants—Nostrana and Oven and Shaker—withstood the pandemic.

But in 2020, Judy Witts Francini, an American who lives and cooks in Certaldo, Italy, her husband's village in Tuscany, was my mentor, friend, and culinary inspiration. We would talk for hours about food. Judy is aware of my obsession with pork in general and my particular love of the Tuscan delicacy porchetta. She suggested I prepare turkey bruschetta for Thanksgiving, which would address both my reluctance to prepare a large bird and my dislike of bland roast turkey.

Although the term "porchetta" has various variations, the core idea is a butterfly, boneless pork loin or pig shoulder smeared with herbs and garlic. The interior of the pork is then folded up to resemble a pinwheel. The curled pork is then wrapped with a skin-on hog belly and baked. You end up with delectable concentric circles that have a crispy surface and a moist, flavorful interior. Sliced porchetta is offered as an individual dish or as a sandwich.

However, substituting boneless turkey breast for boneless pork is not an exact match. To begin with, turkey breast is extremely lean. I would need to add some fat to the turkey, so hello, Parmigiano and prosciutto! And while I consider pork the most flavorful meat, turkey breast is better as a vehicle for other flavors than as a meat with a distinctive character of its own.

Roast turkey has never been my favourite holiday meal. Let's face it, it's a little dull and dry.

For years, chefs have experimented with the turchetta idea and used different methods to add flavor and fat to the dish. While some choose to load the turkey breast with mozzarella or wrap it in bacon, most utilise the traditional porchetta flavours of fennel seed, garlic, and rosemary.

I used a significant amount of Parmigiano-Reggiano as a flavour and fat enhancer, following Judy's recipe for turchetta as my guide. The ingredients were sliced garlic, ground fennel seed, fresh rosemary, and sage. I introduced some pork into the dish with a layer of thinly sliced prosciutto.

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I butterflied a turkey breast and pounded it out to an even thickness with a flat mallet. Then I layered on all those good things, rolled up the breast and tied it so the skin would stay in place on the outside.

Porchetta is usually served on its own, but given that this dish was to be the centerpiece for a holiday meal, I thought a sauce would be appropriate. After browning the rolled turkey breast on the stovetop in some garlic and rosemary-scented olive oil, I added red wine to the pan, let it reduce a bit, and then transferred the pan to the oven.

As the turchetta roasted, the wine mixed with the turkey juices (and some escaped Parmigiano, no doubt), and the whole thing reduced into a savory sauce. I whisked in some butter for added richness. And I knew this Thanksgiving wouldn’t be our last to feature turchetta.

Of course, the turkey isn't the only thing on the table at Thanksgiving. Although you can serve the turchetta with any traditional sides your family enjoys (or anticipates), I prefer to favour straightforward Italian vegetable preparations: White beans that have been cooked in olive oil, sage, and entire garlic cloves. 

Broccoli rabe is cooked in a sauté with garlic and chilli flakes after being boiled till soft. roasted potatoes with garlic and rosemary. Do you see a pattern emerging here? Undoubtedly, garlic is a food item for which to be grateful.

Maybe a traditional American pumpkin tart for dessert. Not to be overlooked are the crucial Thanksgiving leftovers. A very good sandwich for the next day is made by combining apple butter with a small amount of Dijon mustard, spreading it on a roll, and then stuffing the roll with sliced turkey.